AS AN ART
For some, surfing waves is a religion; for others it is a sport - a good and healthy sport, nothing more. Some have said that it is a transcendent form of art. If surfing is an art, maybe it is a martial art, but in the spirit of Aikido, the Art of Peace, using the opponent´s force to beat him.
The wave harden´s itself in a fist of power, the surfer moves towards the tube to greet it. The muscle relaxes, the fist opens and receeds, the surfer rips the open sheer face of the wave with such a strenght that manages an arc of perfect beauty. Is that too much? Well, from the artist surfer´s perspective, it is something beautiful.